Doors create a
beautiful first impression.
Wood costs are
rising - it's more expensive to replace your existing door.
entry door detracts from your otherwise well maintained yard.
can gradually damage your doors.
Arizona heat dries
out wood doors and cracks the surfaces.
Our team of experienced finishers will stain
your fiberglass door to look just like real wood. You may choose from
our wide variety of paint colors, or select one of our seven rich shades
of stain that we offer. Then the finish is baked on to assure lasting
beauty. From one door to one hundred, call us for further
Many of our customers tell us
that their wood door never looked better. Our staining expertise allows
us to closely match your original door color. However, if you want to
update the look of your home, we can work with you or your decorator to
make your door the color of your choice and enhance the appearance of
your home entrace.
If you are looking for
something unique --our specialized techniques of door refinishing, door
glazing, door antiquing and door distressing may be the answer. Our
finishing process gives your door the best possible protection against
Penetrating Wood Finishes
Penetrating finishes are absorbed into the wood pours with very little
remaining on top. All of the penetrating finishes are wipe-on types, even if
they are initially applied with a brush. The excess is removed after a short
period, usually 5-10 minutes.
- Linseed Oil – Mostly used on exterior wood siding
and log homes.
- Tung Oil – Interior use is most common, can be used
on food contact surfaces.
- Danish Oil- Can be used on interior doors and trim.
Tung Oil and Linseed Oil are called drying oils. This type of wood sealer can
take a long time to dry to the touch. Linseed oil can take days in most cases
and remain rather soft for a very long time. Typical use is outside; example
would be a log home.
Applying Linseed Oil is easy although messy. Tung Oil has been used for
centuries and is an excellent wood sealer for interior and many exterior wood
surfaces. Applying Tung Oil is very simple with maintenance being as easy as
applying another coat.
Danish Oil is a combination of Tung Oil and
varnish with pigments add for color. Danish Oil is applied in the same way as
the other penetrating finishes.
Film Forming Wood Finishes
Film forming wood topcoats have limited penetrating capabilities and remain
on top of the wood. They can be the toughest clear topcoats but not necessarily
the best for every project.
- Varnish (Brush-On and Spray) - Varnish is similar to the
drying oils but have specialized resins that provide faster drying and a
much harder finish. These are available in a wide array of sheens and
degrees of hardness. Plus, some varieties are great for exterior use. Most
applications are a multi-step process. Applying varnish produces a tough
film on the surface of the wood.
- Polyurethane (Brush-On and Spray) - Polyurethane is
very popular now days, available everywhere and not to expensive. This clear
topcoat is best suited for new wood applications. Basically polyurethane is
a plastic coating, with interior and exterior uses. Some poly's can also be
tinted for special effects. Applying polyurethane is the same as varnish,
needing a few steps to do it right.
- Acrylic Urethane (Brush-On and Spray) - Acrylic Urethane
is rather new to the market. Best suited for interior use, but exterior
varieties are now being produced. I like this type of finish. It doesn’t
smell bad and dries fast. The best part is it cleans up with soap and water.
Usually takes a few coats to achieve a good film thickness. Applying acrylic
urethane is easy, can be brushed or sprayed.
- Lacquer (Spray Only and Brush-On) - Lacquer is a common
interior wood finish that is available with varying degrees of hardness.
Typically this is a spray only finish. Spraying lacquer will require some
finesse. Brushing lacquers are rarely used today with so many other
- Catalyzed Clear Topcoats (Spray Only) - Catalyzed
topcoats are a little different than anything else you will ever encounter.
These are 2 part wood finishes that are difficult to use. Usually very hard
and durable, this is a common finish used on cabinets. Rarely used by the
do-it-yourselfer, but still a good choice for wood surfaces that needs extra
protection and abrasion resistance.
- Shellac (Brush-On) - Shellac is a natural resin
dissolved in denatured alcohol and is applied with a brush. Shellac has good
durability but is a little difficult to apply, it dries within seconds. Even
though this is a natural resin it isn’t recommended for food contact